Rock Climbing Question?

Question

When climbing a vertical rock such as El Cap at Yosemite, how do you attach to the granite rock? Are there bolts already in place to attach to? Or, do you have to drill in the rock and set your own bolts? Or, are there things you put in cracks that expand?

Answer 1

Traditional or "trad" routes are the ones where you place your gear into cracks in the roock, these include expanding (cams) or passive (usually tapered nuts or hexagons), and slinging trees or boulders or horns. It may still have bolted belays.



A route with all bolts is a called a Sport route, and is usually on a face that does not have the cracks to be able to climb it trad.



A mixed route is a bit of both, but bolts should still only be placed where there is no other form or protection available.



Drilling is a last resort if you are stuck for a way down, or if you are establishing a new route.



Many climbers begin leading with sport routes because it requires less gear and is less scary than trad.

Answer 2

El cap gets climbed thousands of times every year. There have been a few people who have climbed it top to bottom without any gear. That's called "Free Soloing". There are tons of bolts, as well as fixed pitons that climbers use for anchors and or direct aid. Many routes require the use of pitons that are cleaned after each pitch to be used again on the subsequent pitch. Spring loaded camming devices, stoppers,hex nuts, sliding nuts and tube chocks are also employed in anchor construction, protection, and aid. Projections of rock called horns or chickenheads are slung with webbing as well. Teeny tiny grappling hooks are also used on the harder aid climbs to gain vertical progression. Climbers also use these little pieces of soft metal called copperheads or bashies on the harder aid climbs. If you are new to climbing, check out John Long's "How to Rock Climb".