I have no natural talent for rock climbing. Got any tips?

Question

I am not one of those wiry guys with small hands and feet that can fit into any crack or grab any ledge. My hands and feet are huge and I find myself having difficulty with some of the holds that my friends have no problem using. I am still a beginner (i.e. no lead climbing yet), but I was very happy with myself when I did an average 5.11 last year. I probably would have difficulty doing it again though :-) Any tips?

Answer 1

Hang on the trim of doorways in your house or work or wherever you can. Or even make/buy a hangboard. Use holds you can grip for 2-3 seconds, and others as well up to 30 seconds before you lose your grip. Do sets of 3 or 4. This is guaranteed to improve your grip strength and allow you to focus on the rest of your technique.



Use your legs! Get your foot high, rock your weight onto it and stand up. Use your toes. Build explosive leg strength by doing one legged squats, with the other leg parallel to the ground + holding your your foot. Takes some balance eh? I can do 10 on each leg, I started at 0. Then u can stand up on one foot when climbing.



You have the right attitude (never satisfied). Commence leading right away. There is no reason to wait. If you're outside start by leading sport routes. You should also start seconding trad routes asap.

Answer 2

everybody has a different body and we all have our strengths and weaknesses, I'm thin with smalls hands & skinny arms, my fingers work great in all those little locks you struggle with but I have always had trouble on long sustained pumpy climbs & I could be taller, more than a few times I have struggled to reach a hold. & in bigger fists jams I tear up my boney knuckles.

being that you have climbed .11's I wouldn't be too bummed, if you are struggling on that stuff you should be, many climbers never climb that hard, and I'm sure you have heard the saying " it's not about the numbers".... if you struggle then work on those skills you are having the trouble with, only with practice will you be good on the things that you struggle on these days.

Answer 3

It is difficult to believe that you did a 5.11 and think that you have no natural ability. Just keep doing it and you will get better. Sometimes it is beneficial to have big hands, for example you may be able to fist jam a crack your friends hands slip in.

Answer 4

I would say to go to a rock climbing class. The instructor would tell you how to do it easier and more efficient. He might also tell you the right gear to buy. He would give you more tips than anyone else.